A Beginners Guide – When to Start Planting in Spring

There’s a moment every year usually after a long New England winter when the light changes just enough, the birds return, and you feel it. Well, that time was last week for me in my zone 6b garden …we had a false Spring with temperatures in the 70’s. I saw gardeners online planting their gardens. The big question is, is it time to start the garden again? Let’s get into it…

One of the most common questions I’m asked (and one of the most searched on Google) is: “When should I start planting in spring?”

And the truth is planting too early can be just as harmful as planting too late.

In a cottage garden, timing is everything. Let me walk you through exactly when to plant in spring along with the simple routine I follow here at Old Castle Cottage. Understanding your last frost date is the single most important factor in determining when to start planting your spring garden.

Everything from roses to vegetables to cottage garden flowers—depends on this timing.

What Is a Frost Date?

Your last frost date is the average date in spring when temperatures stop dropping below freezing (32°F).

This tells you:

  • When it’s safe to plant outdoors
  • When to move seedlings outside
  • When your garden truly begins

If you are unsure of your zone, you can easily find it using the official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map or go directly here: Find Your USDA Hardiness Zone by Zip Code. Just enter your zip code, and it will instantly tell you your exact growing zone so you can plant with confidence. See here for my quick downloadable “Know Your USDA Growing Zone” guide.

Soil Temperature Matters (Not Just Frost!) Even if frost has passed, cold soil can stunt growth.

Ideal soil temperatures:

  • Cool-season plants: 45–55°F
  • Warm-season plants: 60°F+

If the soil feels cold to your hand it’s too early.

Screenshot

Understanding Spring Planting in Zone 6b

If you’re gardening in Connecticut (Zone 6b like me), your average last frost date is: April 15 – May 15. This date is your guide but not your rule.

Early Spring (March – Early April)

The “Wake-Up” Season – This is when your garden is just beginning to stir. The soil is cool, the air is unpredictable, and patience is key.

What you CAN plant:

  • Cold-hardy perennials
  • Shrubs and trees
  • Bare root roses 
  • Pansies and violas

What you should NOT plant yet:

  • Tender annuals
  • Warm-season vegetables
  • Anything frost-sensitive

This is also the time I begin my rose care routine—pruning, cleaning beds, and applying my first feeding. I prune now and apply fertilizer when the roses start to leaf out.  Rose Care linked here.  I also start my dahlias indoors to get a head start of the growing season but you to.

Mid–Spring (Mid April – Early May)

The Transition Season

Now things begin to shift. Days are longer, soil is warming, and your garden is ready for more.

What to plant:

  • Hardy annuals
  • Perennials (foxglove, nepeta, salvia, geraniums)
  • Hydrangeas and shrubs
  • Climbing roses

Garden tasks:

  • Mulch beds
  • Begin consistent watering
  • Watch weather closely for late frosts

Late Spring (After Last Frost – May)

The “Go Time” Season – This is what most people think of as planting season—but it’s actually the final phase.

What to plant:

  • Tender annuals (zinnias, cosmos, dahlias)
  • Containers and window boxes
  • Vegetable gardens

This is when your cottage garden begins to come alive.

The Biggest Spring Planting Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

If your garden struggled last year, it often comes down to these three things:

1. Planting Too Early– Warm days in March can be deceiving. One late frost can: damage new growth, kill tender plants, set your garden back weeks. Always watch nighttime temperatures, not just sunny days. 

2. Ignoring Soil Conditions- Working wet and cold soil can compact roots, prevent proper growth. Soil should be crumbly, not soggy, and easy to work with your hands. 

I recommend having you soil tested your local extension can do this for you or you can buy a soil test kit.  It will tell you what to add to your soil to help with the growing  I will link it here

What I Do in My Garden

I never plant based on dates alone. I watch:

  • The soil. like I mentioned above
  • The weather patterns. 10 day forcast 
  • Nighttime temperatures.   Important!!!!

Final Thoughts

No matter your zone:

  • Start slow
  • Plant in layers
  • Let the season unfold

Because the most beautiful cottage gardens are never rushed…

Tell me your zone + last frost date below—I’d love to help guide what you should plant next!

19 Comments

  1. Hi Ann,

    I’ve just discovered your website and blog. It’s wonderful! Zone 6b in Spring Lake, Michigan. Last frost date is April 30.

    I’m creating two cottage gardens. Doing all the work myself. One garden by an old shed – woodland setting with morning sun and afternoon shade. I’ve cut down junk trees and cleared it out. Quite sandy soil so I’ve purchased garden soil to amend it. First planting is a Pink Kousa Dogwood tree.

    Second is a 58’x20’ish berm in front yard. Full sun. Three mature tress, weeping cherry, pine, and white dogwood. I’ve pulled a huge amount of pachysandra and am ready to begin!

    Thank you for any insight you can give!

  2. Hi Ann, from another Ann! Looking forward to delving into your blog posts for more information and guidance. Thank you!

  3. I’m in the UK! But I think we equate to zone 7. Winters are usually mild with some snow. Occasionally it goes as low as -18. Summer is usually in the 20s but occasionally as high as 35degrees C.
    Hopefully we’re out of frosts now! Although we are getting the occasional bit of hail!!

    I LOVE your garden. So floaty and beautiful. I’d love some help to plant a proper boarder with succession plants to see colour all year. I keep just sticking things in here and there but end up with bare boarders of perennials in the winter or borders of shrubs with jo flowers in the summer!
    Help! I’d love to see a planting map of your garden!!

  4. Hi Ann. I’m in SW Ohio zone 6b. Last frost date is May 15. We are having a crazy Spring. One day was 85 and the NEXT day was 38! Which perennials are considered hardy and which annuals are tender?

  5. I’m in Zone 7a, (Kingsport, TN) and my last frost date is April 29; however, it could go to May 19. My poor hydrangeas, they started to leaf out two weeks ago, then a cold snap, and everything turned brown. They are attempting to bounce back, keeping my fingers crossed.

  6. This is a great guide! I am zone 6a and this past weekend we planted a dwarf lilac tree, pruned and fed the shrub roses and thatched the lawn. It was great getting out in the garden!

  7. I am in Memphis, TN, zone 8a. April 15th is our safe planting date. We have had a very warm false spring this year, and many people put in annuals. Then we had 2 days of below freezing and those plants were lost. I covered up all my hostas and bulbs that were about 6″ above ground and put sheets over my very budded out azaleas. They survived the frost, but some were shocked by the cold. I am very interested in hearing your advice on planting here in zone 8a. I am new to your blog, and am loving it! Your gardens are so lovely!

    1. The false spring is so tricky in 8a! Even though April 15th is your last frost date, I always recommend watching the 10 day forecast more than the calendar. If there are any hints of temps dropping below 35 degrees I would hold off. For your area – a good rule of thumb is hardy perennials, shrubs, and bulbs – safe to plant earlier. Tender annuals – petunias, impatiens, tomatoes etc.- wait until temps are consistently above 50 degrees. You did exactly right covering the hostas and azaealas – they will recover when temps stabilize. One little tip I learned early in my garden journey – plant in waves. I’ll do small early planting, then the bulk 1-2 weeks after my last frost date. That way if a cold snap hits you don’t lose everything.

  8. I love this guide! I’m in Zone 7B – last frost date set at April 9.
    I have a full sun garden and a partial sun/shade garden I’m starting this year!

  9. We live in zone 6A… northeastern Washington State. Our frost date is around May 8th. Where might I find your Rose Care link. When do you remove any leaves, pine needles straw that protect your roses? What do you “feed” them when it’s time to prune? Your gardens are something I dream about. Live rural and have deer 😂🤦‍♀️

    1. Hi Amber! For shrubs like ninebark and viburnum, your best planting and transplanting windows are: early spring – now is perfect as soon as the ground is workable and before they fully leaf out. Early fall – abut 6-8 weeks before first frost. If you are transplanting – try to move them on a cool, cloudy day if possible. Dig as large of a root ball as you can. Water deeply after planting and keep consistently moist for the first few weeks. One little tip I always follow avoid transplanting once the shrub is fully leafed out and actively growing, as it can cause more stress. Both ninebark and viburnum are wonderfully hardy and forgiving, so you’re working with great plants. You’ll have beautiful structure and blooms in no time! Let me know what varieties you’re growing—I’d love to hear

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